If you only have time for one drive in Albania, make it the Riviera. The 230 km coastal route from Tirana to Saranda — known locally as the SH8 — winds through olive groves, climbs the Llogara Pass at 1,027 m, then drops into a string of turquoise coves between Dhërmi and Ksamil. Done at the right pace, an Albanian Riviera drive is a 2 or 3 day trip you'll think about for years.
The route in brief
- Tirana → Vlora (130 km, 2 h) on the SH4 motorway
- Vlora → Llogara Pass (40 km, 1 h) — climb into Llogara National Park
- Llogara Pass → Dhërmi → Himarë → Borsh (60 km, 1.5 h) — the Riviera proper
- Borsh → Saranda → Ksamil (40 km, 1 h)
Stop 1 — Vlora, where the Riviera begins
Vlora is Albania's third-largest city and a worthwhile half-day stop. Walk the seafront promenade, eat fresh fish at one of the harbour restaurants, and visit the Independence Museum where Albanian independence was declared in 1912. From here the road starts to climb.
Stop 2 — Llogara Pass, the most photographed road in Albania
The Llogara Pass climbs through pine forests with dizzying views down to the coast. There's a viewpoint at the top where you can pull over, eat grilled lamb at one of the roadside restaurants, and watch paragliders launch. Drive carefully — the descent is steep with hairpins.
Stop 3 — Dhërmi and Himarë
Dhërmi has the most famous beach on the Riviera, with several sand-and-pebble bays separated by limestone headlands. It gets busy in August; stay overnight in a small guesthouse and swim in the morning before the crowds arrive. Himarë, 20 minutes south, is more laid-back — a working town with an old hill village above it and excellent seafood at the marina.
Stop 4 — Hidden beaches: Filikuri, Gjipe, Krorëz
The Riviera's secret is its hidden beaches, accessible only by short hike, boat, or 4×4 track. Gjipe Beach sits at the mouth of a canyon between Dhërmi and Himarë. Filikuri is a sea cave with a pebble beach reached by water taxi from Himarë. Krorëz is one of the wildest, an hour's walk down from the SH8.
Stop 5 — Borsh and the longest beach
Borsh has Albania's longest continuous beach (7 km) backed by olive groves. It's quieter than Dhërmi and a great place to spend a slow day — paddleboard, swim, eat at a beach taverna.
Stop 6 — Saranda and Ksamil
Saranda is the Riviera's biggest town, directly across from the Greek island of Corfu. Use it as a base. Day trips: Butrint archaeological park (UNESCO), the Blue Eye spring, and Ksamil — a string of tiny islands you can swim or kayak to.
Detour: rafting the Vjosa
If you have an extra day in your schedule, take a detour inland from Saranda or Vlora to Përmet for a half-day Vjosa rafting trip. The drive is roughly 2 hours from either town. Book through vjosarafting.com — guided, beginner-friendly, and one of the few activities in Europe that lives up to the "wild" label. See our full guide to Vjosa rafting.
What car do you need?
The SH8 is paved end to end. Any economy car (Fiat Punto, VW Polo) handles it comfortably. For Gjipe Beach and the wilder hidden coves, an SUV with a bit of clearance is more relaxing on dirt access roads. Browse cars at Tirana airport.
How long do you need?
Minimum 2 days, ideally 3–4. A one-day "drive Tirana to Saranda" rush misses the entire point of the Riviera, which is stopping.
